One Trick Pony: hipster pub brunch

One Trick Pony, Alcester Road, Moseley

One Trick Pony sits towards the city end of Moseley High Street, set back from the road behind the pavement and a beautiful old tree. It has roadside seating, which is not that attractive as the Alcester Road is busy and noisy, dominating the outside, but as soon as you step through the doors on a Sunday lunchtime, a peaceful quiet descends.

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Inside, this pub has ordered its interiors straight from the Nice -Venue-With-Hipster-Stylings catalogue, which isn’t to say it isn’t a lovely venue. The feature light fittings, the mix of leather bar stools, diner-style benches, and those ubiquitous Eames-style dining chairs, along with carefully trendy wall art, and a decor featuring exposed brick and timber cladding in abundance may be everywhere at the moment, but they make for a pleasant and relaxing environment.

It was quiet on a Sunday lunchtime, with two other tables filled, so service was prompt and very friendly. You order at the bar, and then food is brought to your tables. Tea arrived with a biscotti on the side, but just a cup of tea: no teapot here, probably in deference to the more dominant styling as a pub and drinking venue.

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The menu is varied, starting with a standard full English, but adding some fancy twists to other dishes: the bacon sandwich for example is served on a brioche bun, the bacon is black treacle bacon, and it comes with ‘ancho chilli relish and Asian slaw’ for example.

I ordered the Pale Ale Melt, for which the ingredients are described as ‘Camden Town Brewery Pale Ale rarebit, caramelised onions mature cheddar’. It was stunningly delicious. It arrived without any needless salady dressings, which made it even more perfect in my book. Just a delicious, cheesy, beery, oniony melt, not greasy, but full of flavour. It doesn’t look much in the picture, but believe me, my mouth is watering in memory just typing this.

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The ‘Proper English’ – the attempt by restaurants to avoid using the term ‘full English’ and differentiate their version of the dish through its name is never-ending – was pronounced excellent overall, even if the odd element was a let down.The potato rosti was a nice idea, but not cooked very well: burnt on top and a bit raw underneath. The eggs were well cooked, although it would be nice to have a choice of styles. If you are happy with fried eggs though, these were spot on. Sausage and bacon were both pronounced really good, and the beans came in for special praise, a One Trick Pony twist on the dish which went down particularly well in their own spicy relish.

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The toilets are decorated with nice quality sinks and mirrors, while graffiti-styled tiles near the door add some more individual styling to the room, tying in with the street art touches throughout the venue.

 

On Bank Holiday weekend, it it worth noting that the One Trick Pony has a lovely pub garden out the back, again decorated with graffiti and street art down one wall, which makes it a jolly and bright space.

In summary:

Price:  mid range: £7 for a Proper English, £5.95 for a cheese melt

Atmosphere and design: hipster mismatch, with street art touches throughout

Food: mostly very tasty. Most dishes bringing a twist to classic brunch food

Toilets: clean, spacious, clean decor

Enjoyment: lovely peaceful place to relax on a Sunday morning, and I’d go back for the pub garden and evening food.

Website: http://www.onetrickponyclub.co.uk/food

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