Comptoir Libanais. Grand Central, Birmingham City Centre
Magnetised by colour is scientifically inaccurate phrase, but it captures exactly what happens to you when you pass Comptoir Libanais. In a row of generic and fairly bland chain restaurants in Grand Central, it screams at you, waves its arms, and basically drags you over with the sheer force of its exuberant decor. It’s a chaos of pattern, light, texture, multicoloured madness, and it looks enchanting.
It serves Lebanese food, with all the breakfast options including a Lebanese angle: you can have a croissant, for example, which comes with Lebanese jam, or you can go for a more explicitly Lebanese Halloumi and Zaatar Man’ousha, a tasty sounding flatbread. Tea comes in glass teacups, which are delightfully dainty, and photograph well against the green-tiled tables and busy backdrop.
Their version of the full English is simultaneously classic, and distinctively Lebanese. The spiced sausage is Armenian lamb, the egg, potatoes, mushrooms and tomatoes all cooked well and rounding out the distinctively ‘English’ elements. More breakfasts generally should come with a hefty hunk of halloumi – a heavenly treat – while the ‘fool moudamas’, the mashed bean side, was lovely, and – according to the internet – pretty healthy as well.
The shakshuka with sojok was so, so delicious. Basically, a big mashed up bowl of tomatoes, red onion, peppers, parsley, coriander, garlic, Armenian sausage and feta, with a fried egg on top, it was soft and warm and spicy and tender and cheesy in the perfect way. It was also enormous: if you finish this dish, expect not to need lunch as well.
The food is delicious, but it’s the feast for the eyes that makes it such a treat to relax in. We sat next to each other, rather than opposite, both backs to the wall so we could watch the passers-by in Grand Central, and so we could just enjoy the kaleidoscope of colours. It’s a chain, but it’s unique in Birmingham in its arresting commitment to Instagrammable colour.
It also gets major bonus points for its attitude to the gender pay gap. A quick rummage through the websites of other food venues in Grand Central struggle to even find the relevant information; Ed’s Diner has a statement which basically blames everyone else for the problem, but most don’t seem to have any info at all. But Comptoir Libanais has its statement linked right there on the main page, and its a specific and detailed policy that acknowledges the leadership gap, and outlines specific things they are doing to address it. If I’m going to support a chain restaurant, let it be one which seems to be taking its responsibilities as an employer seriously.
Finally, the toilets were all out of order when we visited. The Grand Central toilets are only a few minutes away, but it does mean leaving the restaurant. The only downside to a lovely visit though. If caught waiting for a train in Grand Central, Comptoir Libanais would be a great place to stop.
In summary:
Price: mid range – £8.45 Comptoir full breakfast, £7.95 shakshuka
Atmosphere and design:so so bright and colourful, pattern and light and texture everywhere you look. It’s loud, but it’s fun!
Food: classic breakfast food with a Lebanese twist, or Lebanese breakfast options
Toilets: out of order
Enjoyment: a really fun, beautiful place to eat, convenient for the shops and train
brumbreakfast 